CAP FERRET: THE LITTLE KNOWN FRENCH COASTAL GETAWAY

Imagine a vacation spot where you can dine next to French movie stars while still wearing your sundress from the beach. Getting the best of both worlds seems far-fetched, but fortunately it’s not – and this place exists in France.

Of course there are the usual spots, such as chic Cannes and Saint-Tropez, or quaint Provence. If you want trendy and tranquil, however, it’s Cap Ferret, where it’s possible to enjoy a meal by the shore then wander around town in your bathing suit. Vanessa Paradis and Johnny Depp found this little-known getaway cool enough to have spent a few summers here; it has a relaxed, New England vibe thanks to its mix of oyster shacks and art galleries. Take care though not to confuse Cap Ferret with Cap Ferrat, the distinctly posh holiday destination in the French Riviera. This one, a narrow strip of sand, is the peninsula 60 kilometers from Bordeaux, tucked between the Atlantic and the Bassin d’Arcachon. With beaches and pine forests to the west and the calm bay to the east, it is home to some of the cleanest waters in Europe and there is more than enough for everyone to see, eat and do here.

WHERE TO STAY

Cap Ferret does not have an abundance of hotels, but if you book early enough you can find a few gems dotting the dunes. The most talked about is La Maison du Bassin, which has an enclosed bar and lounge hidden behind tall foliage. The ambience – straight out of a Bruce Weber photograph – creates a cozy backdrop for dinner or post-dip drinks. For guests staying longer than a few days or those traveling with family, the best option is to rent a house or apartment. Like all vacation towns, Cap Ferret has multiple rental agencies to choose from. We stayed in Le Canon and would do so again given the central location within the peninsula and the proximity to the oyster bars. It’s an easy ten-minute drive to the beaches and to the main town. Le Canon is surrounded by restaurants, shops, grocery stores and markets, most within walking distance. Should one prefer to go camping, there are many dedicated sites five minutes from the shore.

WHAT TO DO

There are several beaches to explore on the Atlantic side. As it is against the law to build any establishments on this portion of the coast, only two have food options resulting in an unobstructed view of the horizon and the World War II bunkers behind you. If surfing is your thing, the Ecole de Surf de Cap Ferret offers lessons and weekly camps. Hiking, you say? There are over 785 square kilometers of trails throughout the pine forests for running, walking and biking. These paths will take you from one sandy slice of paradise to the next, perfect for a fun day trip. While there are smaller markets throughout each of the towns, do not miss the Cap Ferret market. It is open from 8 am to 1 pm in the summer time and features textiles, clothes, jewelry and cosmetics.

Watch the sunset on Europe’s biggest sand dune

For shorter excursions, ferries can take you to and from Cap Ferret. You can go for a picnic lunch and spend the day on the Dune du Pilat, Europe’s highest sand dune. It’s a bit surreal to walk only on fine, loose grains for an entire day, but the experience yields spectacular views of the bay and is something you won’t likely get to do elsewhere. You can also explore Bird Island or the town of Archachon, where the Phillipe Starck-designed restaurant La Co(o)rniche Pyla-sur-Mer is located. If you’re more of a thrill-seeker, you can soak up the sights by paragliding.

Apero by the beach

WHERE TO EAT

Ostréiculture, or oyster farming, has enabled Cap Ferret to maintain its rustic charm over the years and forms a large part of its economy. When wild oyster production began to decline in the mid-19th century, Napoleon III brought the practice back to the area, which has been known for its bivalves ever since. After daily apéros with freshly shucked oysters and local white wine by the bay, a similar meal somewhere else will not taste as fresh. Catching a glimpse of the farmers tending to the endless oyster beds while one is on board a ferry underscores just how important this enterprise is to the locals. In Le Canon, there is the Quartier Ostréicole, where you can pick and choose a different place for your daily oyster and wine apéro. Strolling through the dusty path, past the colorfully painted oyster shacks, is like stepping back in time. If you can spare an afternoon to watch the world go by, head from Le Canon to Chez Boulan, the oyster institution in Cap Ferret. Situated on the bay, the garden – with its mismatched wooden tables and chairs – is straight out of Alice in Wonderland.

If you’re still craving more seafood, then the best recourse is dinner at Chez Hortense. Since 1938, the restaurant has served what many consider to be the best moules frites in France, a well-guarded house recipe. (Our best guess is that it’s a mix of parsley, white wine, lemon and parmesan cheese.) If you manage to reserve a table, you may get the chance to spot French celebrities such as Marion Cotillard. There are other places around the Marché Cap Ferret that are worth your while. The first, Lemoine, is a café with an outpost in Paris. It has roots in southwestern France and is a top spot in which to grab a seat in the sun and people-watch. Don’t miss their famous cannelés. For a more substantial meal – and a break from traditional French fare – try Le Bistro de Peyo, located in the covered market. It serves Basque-style tapas and Spanish wines by the glass. It’s hard to get a standing space during lunch, so either get there early or arrive after the rush. Other restaurants to sample in Cap Ferret:

Pinasse Café Allée Bélisaire Tél. : +33 5 56 03 77 87

Le Bistro de Bassin 5, rue des Pionniers Tél. : +33 5 56 03 72 46

So PhareAway 32, avenue Nord du Phare Tél. : +33 5 56 60 22 87

Restaurant O D’ici 62, avenue de l’Océan Tél. :+33 5 57 70 59 13

SOME USEFUL TIPS:

If you take the train to Bordeaux, definitely rent a car as you will want one to explore the various towns and beaches.
Not all beaches have lifeguards on duty 24/7. Check with the local tourism office to see which have them and on which times of the day.
Do you have little ones with you? There is le petit train that chugs throughout the town of Cap Ferret.
Traffic can be a bit heavy from 5 to 7 pm on the main road. It’s the perfect time to relax at an oyster shack for apéro.